Sunday, October 31, 2010

Trendy but Classic: Poufs (13 photos)

Poufs are everywhere I look these days - all over magazine layouts and on blogs (and, of course, in Snooki's hair). They're pretty trendy. But that's not all they are. It's not like poufs arrived on the scene just yesterday - they've been a part of decorating for a long time and have been popular...

Source: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/houzz/~3/kC2s2R2HN8c/

Louis Kamper Jan Kaplický Oskar Kaufmann Raymond M. Kennedy

Death of the McMansion: Could it be true?

(Photos via Cote de Texas, read her hilarious post!)
Wine rooms, media rooms, swimming pools, water fountains, tennis courts, children living two floors away from their parents, and adults constantly giving themselves away in body, mind and spirit to maintain the facade. All the while "family" turns into a thing of the past.
(More info here)
If the death of the McMansion allows children to know their parents and parents to enjoy their children and if it allows people to nourish their souls again.... then this demise can't happen soon enough for me.

This is just my
opinion of course:)
Carolina

Source: http://carolinaeclectic.blogspot.com/2010/08/death-of-mcmansion-could-it-be-true.html

Henning Larsen Sir Denys Lasdun Vilhelm Lauritzen John Lautner

Green Day 2!

Funny, I wasn't even feeling green until I saw this photo! I may also be feeling a little green with envy.

Source: http://carolinaeclectic.blogspot.com/2010/06/green-day.html

Greg Lynn Thom Mayne William McDonough Pierre de Meuron

Installing A Power Inverter

There may still be cruisers out there that light their way with oil lamps, use a bucket instead of a head and sail without a motor, but in 18 years of cruising we have not met them. Today, most cruisers are like us, preferring to take the comforts and conveniences of life ashore with them when they cast off the dock lines to sail off into the sunset. Long ago we made the decision to cruise in comfort and not turn our sailing trips into a camp out on the water. This meant we would need a means to power our small appliances, power tools and entertainment devices. There is more than one way to accomplish the same end depending on the level of your power consumption and what your budget might be. For us the requirements were simple. The cost needed to be kept down, the system needed to be as simple as possible, and we needed to be able to install and maintain it ourselves. Additionally, it should not interfere with our piece and quiet, or that of our neighbors. OK, maybe not so simple after all.



There are as many options to accomplish this as there are boat owners. For us, this meant that we would forgo the big energy hogs, like heat and air conditioning, while at anchor and concentrate on the creature
comforts. We have had a TV on board for as long as we have lived on a boat. It is great for plain old entertainment and receiving news and weather. By adding a VCR, and now a DVD player and satellite TV receiver, we are always up on current events and always entertained. In addition, we have small appliances like a coffee pot, microwave, small battery chargers for tools, cell phones,  and power tools. There would be two options for us, either install a small generator, or have enough battery capacity and install a 12 volt to 110 volt inverter. The inverter seemed to meet our criteria and since we already had a sizable battery bank for cruising, it made the decision an easy one.

In sizing an inverter, the power requirements for running the appliances and tools have to be carefully calculated. This is done by determining the total wattage you will need for the possibility of running several or

even all of your appliances and tools at the same time. Although this will not be the case most of the time, it will save having to remember to turn something off before turning something else on. For our purposes, we determined that a 2000 watt inverter could handle our needs easily and we chose the Promariner because of past good experiences with their equipment. Major power consumers like the hot water heater and AC/Heater would not be used to conserve the amps the inverter would need from the batteries. Keep in mind that the amps pulled from the batteries to run the inverter will need to be replaced, but that is for another article.  Many inverters come as inverter/charger combinations. We choose the inverter and charger separately for a couple of reasons. Should the charger fail, we would not be without the inverter. Conversely if the inverter failed we would not be without the charger. The combination units are also much more expensive than buying the stand alone units separately and we had a variety of choices between manufacturers to determine the best charger and the best inverter for our needs.

The installation is much more straightforward than one might expect. There are some basic electrical standards to follow to make the system safe and efficient and these are provided by most manufacturers in their installation manuals. The first step is to find a dry, well ventilated area that will give you easy access, but out of the way enough that it will not be intrusive. The first consideration might be the engine compartment, but many units will not work well or can be damaged when installed in a high heat environment, especially if the inverter might be used at the same time the vessel is under power. We chose the inside of a small cabinet near the electrical panels within a short distance of the battery banks. This location kept the wiring runs as short as possible, minimizing the need for larger cables. Next, determine the locations for the transfer switch and control panel. This means drilling holes somewhere and running wiring, so the areas should be easily accessible both inside and outside as well as free of other wiring and obstacles.

When determining the wiring size, the total possible amperage flowing throw the wiring and the round trip
distance from the inverter to the power source, the battery banks, and back to the inverter needs to be calculated. The amperage can be substantial and some manufacturers have a limit to the distance for installation purposes. Sizing the cables properly is critical, as is proper fusing of the cables to the battery bank. For our needs we ran a #2 cable from the inverter to a 250 amp T-style fuse, within ten inches of the battery connection, to the positive side of the house battery bank. A #2 cable was run from the negative connection on the inverter directly to the negative post on the house bank. We chose to make the connections directly to the battery bank instead of to a switch to connect and disconnect the 12 volt to the inverter. This eliminated a possible source of failure or loss of voltage through a switch and gave us a clean, straight connection to the 12 volt system.

Making the connections to the inverter was done with the inverter outside of the cabinet it would be mounted in to allow for long enough wiring to be able to remove the entire unit and easily work on it if necessary. The battery cables were run and proper eye connections crimped on, but the connections to the batteries were not done until all of the installation process was completed. All of the 12 volt cables were secured with heavy duty straps and the fuse holder securely mounted with easy access. Our fuse holder came with a plastic cover that eliminated an accidental short circuit.

Once the 12 volt wiring was complete, but not yet connected, it was time to work on the 110 volt side of the installation. For absolute safety, we not only turn off the circuit breakers on the boat and on the dock, but we physically unplug the shore power cords from the boat. The choice to connect the inverter into the boats 110 volt system can again be done in several ways. Dedicated outlets can be wired directly into the inverter, but these will only work if the inverter is on. Or the inverter can be wired to directly feed the AC panel for the boat. Even directly feeding the panel can be done in several ways - feeding only certain circuits, or feeding the entire


panel. How it is done affects the complexity of the installation. For our purposes we choose to feed the entire panel using a transfer switch to go from shore power, to off, to inverter. The inverter should never be allowed to feed the electrical panel or any outlets at the same time as the shore power so the transfer switch is a must for safety. The boat is set up with two shore power feeds, one for the AC panel and the other strictly for the reverse cycle heat and air conditioning system so we would not be accidentally trying to run the air conditioning or heat off the inverter. The water heater and 110 volt battery charger were on the panel but we figured we should be smart enough to be sure the breakers were off for these two when we turned the inverter on. Even if we briefly forget to turn these breakers off, no harm would be done with the size inverter we chose.

I would add at this point that a good working knowledge of a boats 110 volt system and installation is essential to be able to complete a safe, secure installation. If one does not have those skills, a qualified installer should be hired to assure there are no problems in the future. Improper installations in the AC side of the boat can cause all kinds of problems from minor to severe. One of the reasons we choose this inverter was that it allowed us to easily hardwire the 110 volt output from the inverter. Many of these units require the AC output to be wired to a plug which is attached via an outlet on the front of the unit. This plug can work itself loose. You can take others apart and hardwire them, but this is not our favorite solution. The proper size standard marine grade, black, white, green, 110 volt wiring was run from the inverter, to the transfer switch, to the AC panel.

We also needed to move the wiring from the shore power inlet to the transfer switch. Great care must be taken to not reverse the hot and neutral, black and white wires at any point along the installation path from either the inverter or the shore power to the AC panel. The green earth ground from both the shore power inlet and the inverter was run through our already installed galvanic isolator. Another feature of this particular inverter is the ability to remove the on/off power indicator from the front of the unit and install it remotely near our electrical panel. Other units that do not have this feature may have a separate remote panel that can be installed. This is much more convenient than going into the cabinet each time we wanted to turn the inverter on and off.

With all of the wiring run and the AC side connected, the inverter switch in the off position, all AC breakers off and the transfer switch in the off position, it is time to connect the DC side to the batteries. With the positive fuse in place, the positive cable should be attached to the house battery bank. Finally, the negative cable should be attached to the house bank and at this time the inverter may make an initial beep or a slight spark may be seen as the negative cable is attached. Depending on which unit is being installed, this is normal. Testing the unit should be done one step at a time, keeping the shore power disconnected at all times. First, turn on the inverter switch and if there is a power indicator light or lights, be sure you have enough voltage in your battery bank. Check over all connections, look and feel for any over heating, and be alert for odd smells. If at any time something feels warm or does not operate properly, shut everything down and disconnect power. Be sure all AC breakers are off including the main breaker. The transfer switch should have a light indicating power on the inverter side and none on the shore power side at this point. A good switch will also have a reverse polarity light, and a note at this point is in order.

Not all inverters are alike and many are designed for the RV market. I have seen many inverters that are not designed for boats that once switched on will show reverse polarity when there, in fact, is none. Be sure to
verify whether this is the case before you make your purchase and go through the lengthy installation process. With the inverter powered up and the transfer switch on and not showing reverse polarity, turn on only the main breaker. You AC panel voltage gauge should show a minimum of at least 110 volts of power from your inverter. Anything less than this means something is amiss, such as too small wiring from the batteries, and needs to be corrected. If the voltage looks good, turn on a breaker to your outlets and turn on something that is plugged into those outlets. If all works well and no problems are indicated, add additional loads for test purposes. At this point it is a good idea to leave the loads on for a period of time and check the draw on the batteries. If the battery drain is excessive, some troubleshooting will be required, but remember, a fully loaded inverter will draw a fair amount from your batteries. If you have done your installation properly, you are on your way to many happy hours of silent power, at least until you need to recharge those batteries.

Once the inverter is tested and all is OK, the switches, including the main breaker on the AC panel, should be shut off, the transfer switch turned to the off position, and the inverter switch turned off. Plug the shore power cord back in and turn the shore power circuit breakers on the dock to the on position. The transfer switch should show power on the shore power side and no reverse polarity lights. Turn the main breaker switch on the AC panel to the on position and turn on your AC breakers one at a time until all of the breakers you use are on. Check over all of your switches, breakers and connections carefully. Remember this is live 110 volts, and if all is well you can button it all back up. The complete installation should be easily done over a weekend or even in one long day if you have the skills and equipment. The next time you are at anchor you can enjoy all of the conveniences of home without all of the noise of a running a generator.

Source: http://trawler-beach-house.blogspot.com/2010/02/installing-power-inverter.html

Asymptote Architecture Eugene Pandala Hafeez Contractor Peter Davidson

I'm Giving Away an iPod--Who Wants It?

Hey, everybody! I've been having a hard time keeping up with this blog lately, and I apologize for the paucity of posts. But I did want to let you know that I'm giving away an iPod (iTouch, worth $199) over at Hooked on Houses this week. All you have to do is leave a comment on the giveaway post to enter.

If you follow me on Facebook, then you know that my grandmother had emergency surgery over the weekend (that's her with my son Jake and me, above). We nearly lost her. It's been a tough few days, but she's rallying now. I loaded a bunch of photos of her with her great-grandkids onto my iTouch and took it to show her yesterday. It really cheered her up to watch the slideshow on the screen.

The iTouch also came in handy while I spent so much time sitting around and waiting in the hospital because I could watch TV shows on it, listen to music, and browse the Internet. I've only had it for about a week, and I'm already wondering what I ever did without it. (Go here to enter the giveaway.)

Oh, and before I forget, I featured a beach cottage dining room makeover at Hooked on Houses that you might like, too.

Hope you're having a good week! ~Julia

Source: http://beachcottagelove.blogspot.com/2009/10/im-giving-away-ipod-who-wants-it.html

Léon Krier Kisho Kurokawa Edgar-Johan Kuusik Ivan Sergeyevich Kuznetsov

Steely composure

Source: http://blog.worldinteriordesignnetwork.com/widn_blog/archives/2010/10/steely-composur.html

Jacques Herzog see: Herzog & de Meuron H. R. Hiegel Steven Holl Michael Hopkins

Color: Taking Home the Gold (9 photos)

You know how Prince, the musician, went through a period when he called himself The Artist Formerly Known as Prince? Well, I'm the decorator equivalent, referring to myself as The Guy That Formerly Hated Gold. For years, I'd hunt flea markets on a mission to rid the country of my biggest solid gold pet...

Source: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/houzz/~3/VvjondYYvOk/

Ridwan Khan Atsushi Kitagawara Hidetsugu Aneha Peter Chermayeff

Lakefront Home In Tampa?s Premier Gated Country Club

This lakefront home is located at 16218 Sierra De Avila in Avila, Tampa, FL’s premier gated country club community. The 9,250+ square foot mansion was built in 2007 by Alvarez Homes and is situated on 1.27 acres. It boasts a gated motor court with 5-car garage, 7 bedrooms, 7 full and 3 half bathrooms, large [...]

Source: http://homesoftherich.net/2010/10/lakefront-home-in-tampas-premier-gated-country-club.html

GRAFT Zaha Hadid Craig W. Hartman Gregory Henriquez

Saturday, October 30, 2010

Backstage At The Boat Show

This is an article we produced some time back and for whatever reason the boating magazines had no interest in. So we post it here for your reading enjoyment.

Often ones first introduction to boating is at one of the many, many boat shows that are staged around the country almost anytime of the year. Some of the largest are in-the-water shows in Annapolis, Miami/Fort Lauderdale and several other venues in coastal cities and inland waterways. But there are quite a few others that are held in convention centers, stadiums and coliseums in cities both large and small. When the doors open and the first of thousands of folks walk through the door, the boats are gleaming and polished, the booths are dressed for customers and the sales folks have practiced their presentations.



But there are major components that very few get to see. It almost begins at the end of the show in preparation for the next, with debriefing sessions and strategies discussed. The move in and out for in-the-water shows are complex, but no where near that for a show that needs to be held inside large buildings many miles from the nearest water. Once the initial layout for the dealer?s area is confirmed and the floor plan is designed, the logistics of getting several large boats over highways and through city streets begins. Transportation via carriers experienced in handling this special cargo must be made well in advance. Those with the equipment and expertise are in big demand for these events so finding one at the last minute may be next to impossible. Many dealers have long established relationships with those carriers so each anticipates the needs of the other and this part of the equation usually works well. But there are always those last minute glitches that can make for anxious moments when show time approaches.

Ship & Sail Yacht Sales in Kemah, Texas is both a sail and power boat dealer that is present at several shows during the year. Houston International Boat, Sport & Travel Show is held at the Reliant Stadium and is by no means the largest show but is one of the first shows of the year, being held shortly after the New Year holiday. An estimated 150,000 people will walk through their doors in the ten days of the show. In most years a 1,000 or more vessels will be on display and over 400 vendors will show their wares. But when you walk through the door, did you ever wonder just how all of this was put together and how in the world did they get those boats in here. Well, it wasn?t easy.

An over the road trip with a large boat has its restrictions. The two biggest are height and width. There are limits for both in many states and special permits needed in most. A large consideration for transport is the bridges the boats must pass under. That means the dealers must virtually disassemble the larger boats to meet those restrictions. A good working relationship with a nearby boat yard is essential. Boats that will be on display will have to be moved to the yard based on availability of haul-out schedules and at the same time coordinated with the transport company that will haul the boats to the venue. Ideally the boats will be hauled from the water, have the bottoms powered washed to remove marine growth, and placed directly onto the trailers that will take them to their destination. If all goes well that is exactly what happens. But trucks break down, drivers get ill, travel lifts quit for whatever reason and sometimes the weather just won?t work with you. But somehow it all gets done and on time.

Once the boats are on the trailers, the process of removing whatever parts that will hinder transport are begun. With the sail boats this means masts, booms and rigging must come down prior to loading. Additional items such as arches and even stanchions and pedestal guards may have to come off. Some times this can be done in advance but again it is usually all done in one event to save time and expenses. For power boats this means hardtops, arches and even superstructures as well as propellers and rudders. This can be a daunting task. Hundreds of wires, cables, steering lines and whatever else runs from the bridge to the inner sections of the hull must be disconnected in such a way that it can be properly reconnected again later. These parts of the vessel need to be unbolted and uncaulked and prepared to be lifted from the hull. Once again sound experience and proper equipment are an absolute must. Some of these vessels are priced in the millions of dollars and working with human beings and large boat parts can pose certain hazards.

Removing masts and superstructures requires the use of a crane or the yard?s travel lift depending upon the size and weight. The sections are removed with great care so as not to damage anything and are then themselves loaded onto the trailers, sometimes sharing space with the boats and sometimes needing their own transportation. With the sailboats, most dealers leave the masts and rigging in storage at the yards until after the show. Each hull and each section needs to be supported properly on the trailers so that they will withstand the trip to the show venue without mishap. Care must be taken to support the load so the vessels won?t suffer damage, due to bumps in the road, sudden twists, turns and stops along the way. Even wind affects on the various parts plays in how the trailers are set up and all of this is done as the boat or sections hang from the crane or lift just above its respective trailer. You might think that once the boats are loaded and secured that the hard work is over. But in fact, it has just begun.


The producers of the show will schedule a time and place for the dealers to stage their boats prior to the show. For the larger vessels, this means hauling the boats to the venue days before set up begins and leaving them until the offloading and set-up starts. For dealers that have smaller boats that will be brought in by trailer other than the large transport, that means beginning the move in once the doors are open for set up. In either case, it is a well orchestrated plan that has been fine tuned over the years. Every consideration has been made based on size of vessels to be moved in and even the location within the building itself. Once again, scheduling equipment and manpower correctly determines how quickly and successfully the whole move-in process goes.

It has been said that from chaos and confusion comes order and this about sums up the move-in process. Consideration must be given to access for the larger boats and the equipment needed to unload and re-assemble them. Trucks carrying necessary supplies to build displays, and carry office supplies, signs and banners and whatever else is needed must be able to reach the display areas and unload. Most of this is directed by the shows promoters. Depending on size, the boats may come in by small trailers behind pick-up trucks or on large flatbeds set up for just this purpose. Sailboats must be lifted by a pair of large cranes and blocked in place. The larger power boats need to be raised off their trailers and blocked in position and the sections that were taken apart for shipping must now be put back together and made ready for the public. Again the large cranes might be called to duty. Decking may need to be built and positioned, and carpet or other floor covering placed in the display area. All of the set-up process is done over a period of days prior to the show. Most vendors will begin very early in the morning and continue till late in the evening. That opening day deadline is on everyone?s mind and the entire process is difficult and grueling.

Once the boats are positioned, decks are built and put in place and the major construction is completed, the finishing touches are put on the display area. This can be video displays, information brochures, lights, plants and anything else the dealer may decide that will make the area more attractive and appealing to the public. The equipment on the boats must be checked out and in good working order. Where needed, electricity should be available. Just before Showtime, the boats will be completely detailed and decorated. Hulls will be polished to a high shine and the stainless fittings and hardware will gleam in the lights of the arena.

And let?s not forget all of the vendors selling their various equipment and wares. Several areas are set aside just for these displays. They tend to be much smaller but still require a fair amount of set-up. They can be as varied as insurance brokers, chandleries, engine shops, equipment suppliers both large and small and sometimes, totally unrelated to boating. These displays are usually the last to be set up and are an indicator that the big day is quickly approaching. While all of this is going on, the promoters are busy hanging signs, setting up electrical connections, planning parking for thousands and even placement of the ticket booths. The entire undertaking is one well choreographed effort that even for those of us that have done this many times still watch the process unfold in wonder.
When the big day comes, the doors are finally opened and that first person walks through, the public sees a spectacular display of all things boating under one roof. The selections are almost overwhelming and the individual vendors are standing by to answer questions and sell their wares. There is little evidence of just what went on in those days just prior. It would appear that everything just magically arrived for their viewing pleasure. And once the last one goes home and the doors finally close on this particular show, well the whole process of taking it all down and getting it back where it came from, and put back together or stored away for the next show begins. But that is a whole other story.

Source: http://trawler-beach-house.blogspot.com/2010/01/backstage-at-boat-show.html

Vilhelm Lauritzen John Lautner Jerry Lee Ricardo Legorreta

15 Steps To New Ports On The Boat





Our original 30 year old ports were really looking pretty shabby and a couple of them had begun to leak. We did some temporary caulking, which I don't like to do, but it was obvious that it was time to replace them. After a lot of research, we found some very good looking stainless steel ports at New Found Metals   and ordered the 5X12 Stainless with screens and all of the needed materials for installation. We have received a lot of positive feedback from other boaters that have installed their ports and were very happy. The price was pretty good, and the ports arrived in short order. It was time to start the replacement process.




Step 1. Removing the old ports is always a messy process. Ours had a teak trim ring on the outside that came off in pieces. It is hard to tell in the photo, but we used white duct tape around the trim ring so we could get a wide putty knife behind it and not damage the paint in the process. Beach House has had the cabin sides painted with AwlGrip so it is not just gel-coat.



Once the trim ring is removed, the old caulking and crud that has collected under it had to be thoroughly cleaned. We used Acetone and then carefully sanded where the new trim ring would go to help with the bonding of the new caulking.



Step 2. Next, the inside main section of the port had to come out. This is the worst one on the boat and also the one that began to leak again. (Not to mention the fact that it looked horrible.) That is why we started here. The screws came out fairly easily, but since the interior plywood is pretty thin, we had to be very careful to not damage the surrounding wood when pulling this off.



The wide putty knife was used again, and slowly and carefully, we coaxed it off without too much of the veneer on the plywood coming with it. It was actually surprising that it came off so easily. Next, the old caulking had to be gently removed and the wood repaired.



We taped a box over the opening in order to continue working without making a mess on the interior shelf just below the port.



Step 3. There were some spaces and gaps in the plywood core between the outer fiberglass and the interior plywood. We filled the space and gaps with an expandable water resistant foam. Once the foam had set, it was trimmed even with the old opening.



Step 4. We would need to make a template since the new ports were a different shape than the old ones. The new ports have a drain built in, and the corners are shaped slightly different. The overall size of the new ports is very close to the size of the old ones. We took a heavy folder and laid the trim ring on top. With a rubber mallet we tapped all around the trim ring and made an impression of the hub marks. This is where the fasteners will come through from the inside.



With the trim ring still in place, the ring is traced on the template materials. You can trace both the inside and outside of the trim ring, or do as we did, and only trim the inside. If you do this, take care to be sure the top of your template material and the trim ring are in perfect parallel. With the trim ring removed, trace out the locations of the hub marks. These will be used to drill your holes. Once the actual trim ring is traced, the inside perimeter will need to be offset about 3/16 of an inch as will the hub marks.



The template will need to be cut out and we used an exacto knife that can be found in any hardware store.



Step 5. Once the template is finished, it needs to be secured to the outside of the cabin. Take care that it is flat and will not move around as you trace it on the cabin side and also that it is lined up properly. You can take measurements from the surrounding area, or, as we did, use the top inside edge of the template and the top edge of the old cutout for alignment. The area for the drains and the minor adjustments for the corners were marked with a felt tip pen and the template removed. The minor cutting to make the new size fit was made easy with our new Dremel Trio. I have a feeling this is going to be one of my favorite tools. The holes for the fasteners are also drilled using a drill guide supplied by New Found Metals. The drill guide assures that the holes are drilled at the correct angle so that the outer trim ring and the port itself will line up perfectly for the fasteners.



Step 6. Once the opening was cut, we did a dry fit to make sure everything was going as planned. So far so good, and it was time to seal up the core between the outside fiberglass cabin side and the interior wood. This is a messy process so we make sure the inside is covered with duct tape to keep the epoxy off the interior wood and the outside is protected with heavy paper taped in place. The core is coated using West System Six10.  A two inch strip of fiberglass tape wetted with West System is carefully laid around the opening to completely seal it and add strength. This is the same process we used in repairing the windows.




The one inch fiberglass strip should be trimmed with a utility knife along the edge of the opening, just before the epoxy kicks off completely. This is much easier than trying to cut and grind after the epoxy has hardened. Once the epoxy has set, it needs a thorough sanding and wiping down with water and a 3M pad. This removes the blush from the epoxy which can prevent anything from sticking to it and get the opening ready to accept the bedding compounds.



Step 7. The holes on the outside will also need to be counter bored about 1/2 inch to accept the trim ring. We also purchased the counter bore from Newfound Metals and it is of good quality. Be careful not to let the counter bore get away from you.




Step 8. The stainless trim ring and the port itself need a good cleaning with Acetone. This removes any dirt and residue left on the ports from the manufacturing process and assures that the bedding material will stick and seal the ports.


Step 9. The fasteners will probably be a little longer than they need to be and will bottom out before the ports are tight in the opening. We took careful measurements of how long they needed to be and cut them shorter with our handy Dremel tool and heavy duty cutting wheels.



Step 10. The bedding process is probably the most important step in the entire installation. Remember that beside them being ugly, they leaked and we did not want to go through this entire process only to have them leak again and start over. We did one final dry fit before applying the bedding compound. For bedding ports, our preference has always been butyl tape. The stuff is tenacious, lasts forever and is really really sticky. It can be found at most any RV supply store or it can be ordered with the ports. Newfound Metals recommends the ports be sealed really well on the inside and outside. We prefer minimal sealing on the inside and serious sealing on the outside. We want to keep the water on the outside of the boat. A single bead of the butyl tape around the inside of the port is all we used. The space under the drain portion of the port needs a few extra layers. This is more to hold the port in place than it is for bedding purposes.


We also put a thin bead of butyl tape around the hub marks on the trim ring to seal around our counter bore holes.




Step 11. The main section of the port needs to be clamped into place. It is very important that the port line up properly with the holes drilled for the fasteners and the outer trim ring. The port and trim ring should be lined up in place, the port clamped and the trim ring removed. Do this before you put the butyl tape on the trim ring. Tighten down on the clamps. The strip of butyl tape that was placed on the post should squeeze into the opening and allow the clamps to be removed for a short period of time to position the trim ring. But there is a little more that needs to be done first. Once the port is positioned where it should be, the space between the port and the opening in the cabin side has to be filled in with butyl tape. We added two complete rings. Running a ring around the entire port by using the paper that the tape comes on and a plastic handle from putty knife, we forced the butyl tape into the opening. Unfortunately, I was too busy with the project to take a photo. At a minimum, two rings should be forced into the opening. We pushed it in as far as we could, being careful to not leave so much along the outer edge of the port that when we installed the trim ring, it would squeeze out all over the port and ring.




Step 12. With the butyl tape added to the hubs wrapped with butyl tape, the rest of the trim ring needs to be well caulked. For this, we used 3M 4000 UV just in case we will ever have to remove the trim ring in the future. I can't caution enough on the butyl tape. Use enough to completely seal everything, but not so much that it will squeeze out from behind. The stuff is really sticky and hard to clean off.

Step 13. Remove the clamps and bolt the mainframe of the port and the trim ring together. We put a dab of 4000 on the beginning of the threads and a dab of Tef-Gel just under the bolt head. This seals the threads in the trim ring and keeps the head of the fastener from seizing when it comes down to tightening. We tighten down each fastener a little at a time, going round and round until the port and trim ring are tight. We try not to over tighten so that all of the bedding will squeeze out. There should be enough bedding to form a gasket.



Step 14. The 3M 4000 should be applied so that it DOES squeeze out from all around the trim ring. For that, we tape around the ring and the mainframe flange to make clean up easier. But the excess caulk needs to be removed right away before it dries. We use a caulking knife to remove most of it and then Acetone and lots of rags for the final clean up. If any of the butyl tape did squeeze out, it can be cleaned up with metal polish or car wax.

Step 15. Give the entire stainless mainframe and trim ring a good cleaning with a quality metal polish. The finished port will look fantastic.





The interior wood had suffered some damage and the teak had been water-stained from the leaks. No matter what we did, it was not going to look nice, and with the new port, we did want it to look good. Since this area is a storage shelf and in a corner, we decided to try and paint just this area and see how it would look. It could not be any worse. We were very pleased in how the paint turned out, and except for some wiring that needs to be covered, we are declaring this project a success. So, one down and four more to go.

Source: http://trawler-beach-house.blogspot.com/2010/10/14-steps-to-new-ports-on-boat.html

Piet Kramer Léon Krier Kisho Kurokawa Edgar-Johan Kuusik